13/11/2006. I thought I’d left the worst motel on Earth at 11am this morning, but in fact I traveled 200 miles to arrive at the worst hotel on Earth at 8pm this evening - in Indianapolis. Grey stained sheets and carpet reeking of fag ash. There is only one bulb in the room. I moved it to a light fitting nearer to where I am writing, but first I had to find a fitting that worked. Pretty tired and really need to sleep. Eyes sore and itching, but that may be the fag ash. Had a good ride today though. Rode through the plains of Ohio and Indiana past great fields of ripe maize, and some other crop I couldn’t identify. The cold wind was incredible, often blowing the bikes half way across the lane. But the sunlight was amazing, and the sky huge. We passed hundreds of farms with their grain towers and rusting farm machinery, rode through dozens of towns. Amazingly one was the birthplace of Wilber Wright. We stopped at the museum and took pictures. And I forgot to add that last night, in Columbus, the food I’d had to order from my bike, rather than on foot, from one of those greasy neon chain restaurants, was nicked by some bastard from outside our room while I went back to the shiny happy neon hell hole to get the fizzy, sugary water they’d also sold me. Charming. Mileage 1823.