Cordoba, Argentina. 10th June 2007

I arrived here from La Rioja where I stayed the night after a trying journey from Cafayate. I’d been heading for Talampaya National park but found I’d taken a road that was being rebuilt – all mud and dust, and smelly trucks. It took far longer than I’d expected. Not much to report from La Rioja, just an overpriced and quite rubbish hotel. I forgot it was Sunday this morning too, so have almost run out of money. I’ve found a nice hostel here in Cordoba though. Some guy is cooking lomo asado and people are being very friendly. It’s quite difficult to find the time to write anything.
After some truly dreadful roads in Bolivia it’s a relief to be in Argentina. And not only for the much better roads (unfortunately drivers on them are terrible) - for the food and good coffee too. I met up with Fraser’s friends Chris and Susie in Uyuni, on the edge of Bolivia’s amazing salt flats - take a look at the photos. They have a restaurant there making what must be the best pizzas in Bolivia. From there I took the road my American friends Kevin and Clara had taken a couple of weeks earlier to Tupiza near the Argentinean frontier. By stupidly missing the turning to the riverbed I ended up riding a couple of miles of arse-clenchingly soft, sandy shale and hairpin bends before finding my way into the river bed where everyone else was driving. Mind you, the riverbed wasn’t much better since it was just a riverbed. I passed some of the worst towns I’ve seen anywhere on that road, as well of a couple of guys working at their one-man mines. I think they were probably prospecting for silver. I stopped to change my glasses when it started to get dark. A jeep coming the other way pulled up as it passed to see if I was ok. The guys inside asked the usual questions (where have you come from, how long has it taken? etc.) so I was able to answer pretty easily. They each had a cheek bulging with chewed coca leaves and offered me some. It was late, I was tired and had at least another hour and a half to go, so it was the perfect time to chew some of the leaves locals have been using to reduce fatigue, hunger and cold for thousands of years. I chewed it until I got to Tupiza where I spat out the soggy lump. I can report that my cheek and tongue did go numb, but I’m not sure about anything else. It certainly didn’t stop me sleeping that night.
After all that excitement in Bolivia I stayed for a couple nights at a very nice hotel in Cafayate, in the wine-growing region of Salta in northwestern Argentina. I ate good very food and drank good wine with a German couple, Manfred and Heiderose, and Heidlerose’s daughter Hannah, who where kind enough to invite me to their table at the restaurant we happened to be dining in.
Traffic getting worse; I’ll be in Buenos Aires in a couple of days…
Mileage: 20242